Category Archives: Finish Kit

Spaghetti and Brains

Posted on by

Exciting times have arrived in the workshop with the arrival of a big, very valuable, cardboard box from Advanced Flight Systems.  At long last, the brains of the avionics came in which means it is time for me to get down and dirty with wiring.  It took most of an afternoon to unpack and inventory all of the contents but everything I ordered was in the box.

Let me side bar here by saying I am extremely happy with AFS and everything they provided along with all of the questions they answered.  I still found myself questioning a few things and forgetting a few things, however.  The Avidyne does not come with an antenna that costs an additional $325.  Didn’t know that.  I thought I was getting XM as I talked about it many times but it wasn’t on the quote or the order.  Didn’t know that.  Some of the quick panel wiring was different than what I had expected and planned.  Didn’t know that.  The autopilot does not have a go around function.  Didn’t know that.  I’m just saying be cautious, open, and aware that it’s never a one stop shop on avionics.  As much research as I did, I still missed a few things and had to ask a lot more questions and dig in manuals a lot more after I thought I had it all figured out.

I laid everything out to get a good look at it and tried my best to keep the drool off of the expensive electronics.  The panel inserts are absolutely jaw dropping, especially with the screens dropped in place.  The paint and silk screening was perfect and very well done.  All of the cut outs were just as my panel design had laid out and the components all fit perfectly.  Unfortunately, I’ll be covering up the nice paint and finish with the acrylic overlays to create the back lighting.  Had I known the acrylic would not be easily removable, as I do now, I wouldn’t have put Rob and AFS through the hassle of painting and labeling the inserts.  My apologies, guys.

It’s hard not to dive right in, plug it all up and flip the master switch on to start playing.  But I practiced self control and waited until I opened all of the boxes before I started pressing buttons and making airplane noises.  I nearly dropped the unit when I pushed the power button on the G5 and it turned on!  I wasn’t expecting it but the backup battery is installed and she came to life.

AFS did an amazing job of creating wiring harnesses for most of the components behind the panel.  This includes everything from the ACM (their version of the VPX) to the screens, radios, GPS, ADSB, TX, and a few other remote boxes.  It leaves several connections that have to be finished by the builder such as switch inputs (since I’m using custom toggle switches, not the AFS quick panel switches), aircraft front and rear which encompasses lights, pitot heat, etc., trim/flap, and AP servos.  Fortunately, I had the AP servo harness made and installed from the first shipment so that was an easy kill.  I have spent quite a bit of time pulling wires from the needed locations towards the front of the fuselage in preparation of the avionics arriving.  I finished up the wing root harnesses and a few other odds and ends to get the below starting point.

My first task was to fit the Aerosport metal frame behind the carbon panel into the forward fuselage.  I took extra time to make sure everything was positioned properly and drilled a few reference holes to keep it all lined up correctly.  Both the frame and the carbon will need to be trimmed for the screens and inserts.  I set out on the middle insert first since I was concerned about the IFD 540 tray interfering with the subpanel.  As luck would have it, the 540 cleared the subpanel by about 1/2″ so no need to modify the subpanel at all which was a relief.

Then I started laying all of the remote components out on the subpanel which was like putting together a puzzle with missing pieces.  There are fewer boxes with AFS than with Garmin, and they are typically smaller, but it’s still a lot to fit back there.  I wanted to facilitate future maintenance and access to each one, so thought carefully about how I’d get to each box once the plane is finished.  I also tried to keep in mind wiring runs and guidance on how/where to mount each box compared to others.  I am using nutplates on everything I can to make it easy to remove later, so need to keep that in mind on the back of the subpanel.

I found that some things just don’t fit and the audio panel was a great example.  With the tray and connectors on the back plus the suggestion of keeping it away from high current devices and wire runs, I decided to create a rail system and mount it behind the subpanel.  The ECUs for the SDS system will also mount behind the subpanel.  I ensured enough space was between the two for the audio panel to slide out of the tray and for connectors to have room when wiring is complete.

It took two evenings to get everything laid out and nutplates installed so the subpanel could go back into the airplane.  I’m pretty proud of shoving all of these boxes back there and can still easily get to pretty much everything.  I won’t say I’ll never be upside down ing the floor getting to anything, but it will be minimized.  I put all of the premade harnesses in place to get an idea of wire runs that will be needed.  There are a lot of wires in this airplane!  I can’t imagine how much time it would have taken me to build up the harnesses that AFS made up, let alone the assurance they were bench tested with no smoke!

Next up will be pining the wires from the airframe and fitting the inserts to the panel.  Stay tuned!

Shutting the door on the doors!

Posted on by

Doing things better the second time seems to be a driving motto for my project.  The paint on the overhead console is a great example.  With it properly prepped, I sprayed primer on it using the adhesion promoter and instantly saw improvement.  Once the primer cured, I did some test scrapes and the stuff stuck like epoxy!  After that, the color was easy, again using adhesion promoter after a good wipe down with tac free.  I followed all of that up with two coats of the satin clear on the entire painted interior.  It’s about time I replace the cartridges on my respirator.

I also fixed the rear foot well spar paint after cleaning the old stuff off and re-scuffing and priming the surface.  I wound up test fitting a few pieces of the carpet just to get an idea of how much metal is exposed and what actually needs to be painted.  The Aerosport carpet is nice, I couldn’t have done a better job myself, but they aren’t an exact fit which is a bit irritating especially for how much it costs.  Not sure if all of the patterns are like that, but the floor carpet for the rear foot well is about 1/2″ too big on length and width, so one side or both will need to curl up a bit.  Never noticeable once it’s flying, just being picky I guess.

The doors are finally done!!!!  The last coat of color and clear went on smoothly and I’m calling them fully baked.  What a royal pain in the ass they were.  I am very happy with how they turned out, though.  I put the Aerosport handle covers on and got the Plane Around center cam final installed with the roll pin.  The door lights went in for good as well. I took my time putting the final door seal on from McMaster Carr and made the seam hidden by the strut and strut bracket.  I used a bit of E6000 glue to ensure no gap in the seal lets water in up there.  Holding my breath, I closed the door and much to my surprise, both closed with the seal on smoothly!  The right side door is a bit more firm on the handle motion, but the wife is happy with it which is all that matters.

Now that the paint is all complete on the inside, I was ready to install the front windows.  Repeating the process from the rears, the right window went in very smoothly and thanks to good prep work and patience, the inside finish is nearly perfect.  I wound up with a very nice fillet of adhesive creating a nice finish around the perimeter of the door cutout transitioning to the window.  I did notice that the strut now feels much better with the extra weight and doesn’t cause the door to fly open violently.  If anything, it needs a bit of encouragement to go all the way up but has no problem keeping the door open once it’s there.

It took one more evening of work to get the left window in which again went very smoothly.  One additional piece of prep was to put masking tape on the outside of both front windows to help clean excess adhesive from the gap.  It will just make paint prep a bit easier and quicker.  Again, that gap gets filled in with more adhesive after paint for a flush clean look and finish.

I’m back to cleaning up the inside, yet again, of dust and debris since the windows are now in and I can control what goes into the cabin.  The seat belts and receptacles were bolted back in and I riveted on the baggage door panel and gas strut (which I keep forgetting is on when the damn door hits me in the stomach).  Avionics are shipping soon so I need to get the wing root wiring harness complete to be ready to put the expensive boxes in next.

Quit staring at my glass

Posted on by

I quickly grew tired of snide comments on social media about my inventory of aircraft parts on the approved aircraft parts storage location, aka guest bed, so set about installing the rear windows.  The missing piece was flexible 1/4″ masking tape which arrived from Amazon.  This tape is used to go right up to the tape line, earlier traced from the cabin top openings.  The first and most critical layer of tape is used to create the finished line of Sikaflex on the inside of the plexi.  Another layer is applied over the exposed edge of the first layer so the perimeter of the plexi can be scuffed without damaging the first layer of tape.

The method I’m using will result in a black band around each window that is visible from the exterior of the plane.  The majority of builders will use a rigid epoxy here and then apply fiberglass to bridge the seam between the fiberglass cabin top and plexi.  This will be painted after numerous hours of sanding, filling, cussing, repeating, and still not being done.  I honestly don’t mind the black band and rather like the definition it gives to the windows.  The one downside is needing to buy an entire can of the primer which is ridiculously expensive compared to the actual adhesive.  Oh well, it’s only money right?

I scuffed the plexi perimeter and the cabin top then cleaned with the Sika activator (cleaner).  The primer is a very thin black liquid that has a very high surface tension so creates a thick layer on whatever it touches.  It dries pretty quickly and forms the visible black band from the outside of the window.  I had already laid out a few beads of the Sikaflex to cure and use as spacers.  I used superglue to adhere the spacers to the frames and set out fitting the window, trimming the spacers a few at a time to get a nice flush fit with the plexi to cabin top.  This takes lots of patience but in the end resulted in a perfectly flush window.

I did a final fit test with the clecos in place and found that more clecos were needed than I had originally drilled for due to the curvature of the cabin top and plexi.  So I drilled a few more holes around the joggle and got a good result.  I’ll only be able to do one window at a time, but that’s probably a good thing to focus and not rush as this is not a process that is easily undone and corrected.

It’s recommended a smear of the Sikaflex is put on the plexi which I did, but I think it would work fine just laying a thick bead on either surface.  I was sure to use a bit of excess to ensure I didn’t wind up with bubbles or gaps in the mating.  After setting the plexi in place and pressing gently, I made several circuits around the perimeter locking in the clecos to get a good flush fit.  A great trick is to use the back of a razor blade as a guide.  You want it to just barely catch the edge of the plexi or be a hair over the window.  All in all, not a bad process and quite rewarding in the end to finally see a window instead of a big cut out.

Once fitted from the outside, I climbed in and worked the excess adhesive from the joint.  I just used a popcicle stick and created a little fillet with it then peeled the 1/4″ tape back to reveal the inside of the window.  Two tiny spots of the primer wound up on the plexi which I carefully cleaned up with a hint of lacquer thinner and soft cloth.  I couldn’t help but peel back the tape on the outside after the excess was cleaned out of the perimeter gap.  It looks great!!!  After the plane is painted, I’ll go back and fill in the gap with another bead to finish the cosmetics and tool it to have a nice flush surface on the entire cabin top.

The right rear window went in much the same so I now have two out of four windows in.  I’ll put the door windows in after touching up the paint to finish those off.  I got the windshield on to trim it as well which was a bit bigger job than the window trimming but used the same method.  I won’t be installing it until after all of the avionics are installed to ease the install of the subpanel components.

Nope, doors still aren’t done

Posted on by

Have I mentioned doors suck?  Next airplane I build will be open cockpit.  I pressed on with fixing the outside gap and leveling the doors with the cabin top.  As I did with the pilot side, I used the door itself on the copilot side to create a mold in wet epoxy and then trimmed to a rough shape while still setting up.  What a neat trick, thanks Kurt!  Sand, fill, repeat.  Woof, I’m tired of this and very happy I didn’t build a Velocity composite airplane!

Finally, I got to a point where the door gap was consistent and had a proper gap so time to move onto fairing the doors to the top.  A few spots on the frame were lower than the door which resulted in a uneven profile.  This is where the SuperFil is really nice, as it goes on smoothly, is lightweight but strong, and sands wonderfully.  The key is to be patient and not make it perfect with the applicator.  I’m bad at that and wind up causing more work for myself down the road.  Either way, its more sand, fill, repeat to get a good profile around the doors.  I found the pilot side to be a bit worse than the copilots on the aft edge, but better on the forward edge.  On the bottom of the doors where it meets the aluminum structure, I sanded the door face down to smooth the transition, as it didn’t need much.  I figured that would be better than trying to put a few layers of filler on the aluminum.  I’m quite pleased with the way that turned out and it was an easier job.  Meanwhile I continued to perfect the jams, filling and sanding little spots that I saw or felt.

With the process of using the doors as molds, combined with the earlier paint issue near the door strut, I needed to touch up some paint spots again.  I took advantage of the need to fix a crack that had already developed on the left side aft hinge cover.  This was from me twisting the door inadvertently while working on the pins.  I used a Dremel to dig down to the joint between the wood and glass and filled with 5 minute epoxy then filler.  Now, that would have been a quick fix except that I doubled my work load by closing the copilot door on the air hose causing the same issue on the aft pin on that door too!  But wait!  Call now, and I’ll screw it up even further for only shipping and handling!  I later went on to shove the fuselage back into the garage after a final (ha, no not final) cleaning with the doors open.  Guess what doesn’t fit in the garage with the doors open?  Yup, twisted the door really good (glad it didn’t rip it off the hinges) and cracked another one.  Seeing a trend?

So three fixes later, plus a little TLC on the door edges, and they are ready for paint again, this time hopefully for good.  The outside of the door jams are also finally done and satisfactory to my standards.  This took a ton of time overall and was just as much work as I thought they’d be.  I could do it better and faster next time, but I doubt there will be a next time for me!  I rounded over the hard edge which will help the final paint on both the doors and the cabin top.  I wound up with a 2-3 mm gap all around and it’s close enough to the naked eye that it looks really nice.  I spent some time reinstalling the pin guides and really have the handles and pins dialed in for smooth operation.  I tested the seal temporarily on both doors and you don’t even realize it’s there now, which is perfect.

I took the chance to put a tape of glass over the seam between the top and the aluminum followed by two coats of fill to smooth the transition.  This will make a nice finish under paint down the road and is completely cosmetic, not structural.

The only Aerosport product left in the storage rack were the headliner panels, so I got those down and knocked off all of the dust.  They are a very thin layup of fiberglass that the headliner material will adhere to and then velcroed to the cabin top.  I needed to get them trimmed and fitted before putting in the windows, so spent a few hours on each getting just the right shape and fit.  It’s not hard, but it was a bit tedious as there isn’t a good way to get a pattern since each area and side is a bit different.  Lots of fitting, removing, trimming, repeat.  In the end, they fit very well and I’m excited to have them finish out the interior of what will be a very nice and comfortable cabin, no doubt.

I ordered two different color headliner material (available a lot cheaper from online retailers than Aerosport) and found one that matches very closely to the grey of the interior.  I’ll cover the panels down the road when I am between major projects.  The carpet from Aerosport came in and looks great in the bonus room upstairs.  This leaves a bit of paint left to complete the inside work.

Belts and Glass

Posted on by

The seat belts have been a long time coming and now that the parts are anodized, I can install the seat brackets and get the seats off for covering.  I also had to have the belts redone, as the side mount was sewn on backwards, not allowing the belt to be mounted to the side wall.  The front receptacles also had to be special ordered since the mounting brackets for those were also designed for a seat mount, not tunnel mount.  I’ll say that Seatbelt Planet did a fantastic job at creating these for me and their service was excellent.  In the end I wound up with exactly what I wanted despite a lot of custom challenges.

I bolted on the front brackets and then used the guide brackets to locate the holes in the seat back.  Once the belt was fed through, it along with the reel will stay attached to the seat for seat removal. The belt end will be unbolted from the sidewall stock mount and the reel will be unbolted from its mount on the firewall.  The belt will run underneath the leather of the seat.  Thanks Mark Cooper for the design on these!

I ordered backing plates to mount the inertial reels to which will help spread the load better in the event of needing to use the belts.  It also acts as a nutplate so to speak and will make for quick removal and install for removing seats come maintenance time.  I wound up tapping the back plate for six screws so again, it’s easy install and secure mounting.  Note the flaking paint from the spar that I didn’t prep or prime.  What was I thinking?  That will need to be stripped down and repainted properly.

For the rear seats, the reels mount to the underside of the cross bar.  I used the same backing plates and located them on the widest part of webbing in the cross bar.  The belt then routes around the bar and into the brackets and mounts to the stock locations on the seat pans.  Since the rear belt brackets have a slot in them and don’t run through the seat cushion itself, they do not have to be removed to remove the seat backs.

I did have to have the sheet metal guys on base machine a few spacers for me since the receptacle mounts have much larger holes than an AN4 bolt per plans.  A six pack of beer was a small price to pay for the use of a lathe and a few scrap pieces of aluminum.

With the final piece of the seats being the seat heaters from Flyboy Accessories, I trimmed the heating pads and labeled them before boxing up all of the seat backs, foam, and pads to be shipped to Aerosport.  I also dropped in the armrest and the orange leather hide that I ordered as Aerosport will be supplying the black leather.

I decided to take a break from sanding the door jams and work on trimming the windows.  I chose to order the Cee Baileys’ windows and windshield versus the stock offerings.  Feedback says they are easier to fit, a bit better quality, and can be ordered with a light grey tint, which I took advantage of.  You’d probably have to put a tint and non tint together to see the difference, as the tint looks clear to me.  The first order to arrive was somewhat of a shipping nightmare.  The box was damaged, so FedEx decided to remove the windows and placed them on the floor of the truck or something.  Long story short, I marked it damaged and peeled the plastic off the windshield to reveal light scratches and pitting smack in the middle of the sight range.  Baileys was awesome and had a replacement windshield shipped in a few weeks.

After doing a lot of research and assessment of my own capabilities, I decided to use the Sportsman method of installing the windows.  This follows the same principle as Van’s except it uses a more flexible material to adhere the plexi to the substrate.  Some use SilPruf, but I decided to use Sikaflex.  It is very easy to work with, paintable (although not many people paint over it), and available online.  I was having a lot of trouble finding Lord, so all the better.  More on the Sikaflex later.

The first step was to trim the windows keeping in mind a 1/4 gap will be needed between the plexi edge and the edge of the joggle on the top and doors.  This will allow for a nice even gap to fill with the Sikaflex and create a clean looking final product.  Using the well documented YouTube videos, I started with a rough trim and then began marking with the wet erase marker.  The new angle grinder I bought was the perfect tool and made quick work of grinding away the excess material.

Once the fitting was done, I drilled holes for the wingnut clecos to hold in the plexi.  After each window was trimmed and fitted, I traced the perimeter of the fuselage opening onto the plexi to use as a tape line.  This is the second most important step in this method so I took my time to ensure it was all correctly completed.  The line is used to mask before installing with the Sikaflex and results in a nice clean finished look on the inside and outside of the plexi.  An hour of taping later, and the windows were placed on the guest bed, I mean, approved aircraft parts storage location, for a very short period of time.

It’s not easy being pretty

Posted on by

I realized I forgot a post about installing the door seals after building up the door frame lip.  As always, it took more effort and involved more frustration than I had originally imagined.  To sum it up, my problem was not having a consistent gap between the door frame lip and the interior of the door.  I had some tight spots and some just right spots.  The issue are the tight spots that take a lot more force to squeeze the door seal bulb than you want to put on the door.  Basically, I had to start again with fitting once I got the seals.

My first idea to make the seal fit with less squish was to remove a lip on the u channel of the seal.  It’s designed to help hold the seal onto the door frame lip but it also added about 1/8″ of bulk.  While that did help, it wasn’t enough.  I tried different combinations of seals, but due to the uneven gaps, the smaller seal wouldn’t actually touch both surfaces in a few spots and adding filler would have required re-sanding and contouring the inside.  That wasn’t a viable option, so it was back out with the angle grinder and Scotchbrite pads to go to town on the door frame lip.

I was shocked at how much had to come off in some areas.  I determined this using a marker and template, acting as a scribe to measure the proper gap.  I used an area that had a nice amount of squish on the seal but not too much as a gauge for the entire door gap.  It worked well and after making a lot of dust all over the just cleaned interior, I was getting a nice fit on the door seals.  I know I’d have to add some filler on the door jams anyway to get them looking nice, I wasn’t too concerned about my grinding methods.  I mainly wanted a good fit, cosmetics will come later.

After a few evenings and a lot of opening and closing the doors, I had achieved a good consistent gap for the seal and was happy with the fit and function of the door seal.  I noticed that even after two nights of the door remaining closed, the seal was already getting broken in, making it easier to close the door.  Folks say these seals need to be replaced as they wear down, so it will be a maintenance item every other year or two,, I’m sure.  What I wasn’t happy with were the pins that held the doors shut.  The Plane Around latch was doing its job of pulling the door closed, but the back pin still needed to do some work to align to the block.  The pins I have are stainless with epoxied magnets in their tips and are shaped like bullets.  That sounds great if the doors are almost perfectly aligned, but they did a poor job of any movement into the aluminum blocks that I also had.  Even after a few weeks of working, the blocks were gouged and the bullets were wearing scars.

Luckily, a call to Sean at Plane Around solved my problem.  He had a set of angled stainless pins, much like the shape of the stock pins, that were hollow for a magnet to be dropped into.  These use setscrews to attach to the rods and can be positioned to most efficiently capture the blocks and align the pins.  He also has Delrin blocks that are machined to have a nice rounded funnel shape.  The stainless glides effortlessly on the Delrin making the closing and opening of the door handle a seamless effort compared to the rough metal on metal that I had.

It took some time to fit, because I had to cut the rods and machine the pins to orient them just right but the effort was worth it.  My doors now close perfectly with the seals and have a firm but easy motion in the handle.  I fine tuned the blocks’ alignment with shims which allows the pins to insert perpendicular to the block, reducing the friction along the way.  This has been a huge burden lifted, because while the doors were functional and airworthy, they weren’t easy or pretty.  Now they’ll be both.

Getting some fresh air

Posted on by

The Aerosport interior panels have been sitting for some time with a little work done but nothing complete.  Now that the inner door frame is all filled in and sanded, it was time to make the final fit fixes to the panels and tidy up the interior.  I had made a mistake on the pilot side front panel so used some scrap from trimming the rear panel to create a patch.  With a little filler, it will be as good as new.  I also followed other’s lead and misdrilled a hole that required a fix, again not a huge issue.  It’s tough to fit all of these, as you don’t really know where they should line up with until you just dive in.  I trimmed them along the molded trim lines and took my time to sculpt a few areas where it meets the fuselage structure.  The hardest part was around the door frame / windshield pillar.  The right side was an easy fit fortunately, but the left side took some work.  I didn’t fill the cabin top in far enough down the pillar so I had to apply a filler block, epoxy, then SuperFil to finish it up.  Once the panels were located properly, I drilled the recommended mounting holes and installed nutplates on the fuselage.  I also drilled the pockets and cup holders onto the front panels.

The front Mountain High oxygen ports will be installed in the front panels using the relief in the port to hold them in place.  I measured 54 times and then cut twice, purposely leaving the cut too small the first time.  I did not want to ruin a panel by cutting a gaping hole.  While it’s a snug fit and not something I want to do a lot, the ports pop into the panels and look really clean.  I had to grind the thickness of the panel down a bit as it was too thick for the groove machined into the port case.  Unfortunately, my pace of work has increased and my pace of taking photos has decreased, so stay tuned for final install pics of these.

I followed the same method to install the rear seat panels and baggage area panels which went pretty smoothly.  Once I get the headliner all made up, I’ll go back and do some final trimming on the top edge of the rear and baggage panels to fit.  I also fit and drill the baggage door panel, although I won’t rivet it on until later in the finishing stages.  I tackled the rear vent install which was not nearly as difficult as I had feared.  I followed the install guide from Aerosport and got it all done in one evening’s work session.  I wound up using silicone to adhere the ducts to the inside of the fuselage skin since paint won’t hit them and it will allow a bit of flexibility to snap them on to the vent covers in the rear panels.  I also had to put a bit of SuperFil in a few areas to finish off the door frames.  All in all, very happy with the results and the cabin will look very nice once all painted and buttoned up.

With the sanding done on the inside and door seal area, it is time to get some things cleaned up before pressing on.  The entire shop, fuselage, and parts of the hardwood floors inside are covered in fiberglass dust from the preceding weeks of grinding and sanding.    I want to get it mostly dust free before moving onto the seatbelts and interior.  It was a beautiful day outside, so I took the opportunity to roll the fuse outside and start vacuuming.  I wound up using my air gun to blow most of the hard to reach areas out while simultaneously vacuuming the bulk of the dust out.  What a mess!  I repeated this twice and followed it by a final blow out to get everything I could.  I’ll go back and wipe the wires and everything down before closing anything up.

Once back in the “hangar” garage, I went to work on the seat belt brackets that I had machined from Mark Cooper’s design.  These have a long story of trying to convert files and design, but in the end I got a hold of the guy he had machine his and just ordered my own set.  Since I’m using inertial reels and a three point harness on all four seats, I only needed one shoulder bracket for each front seat.  A couple of weeks after placing the order, the brackets arrived and wow, are they nice!  The belts came from Seatbelt Planet after a custom order was placed.  I used the brackets as guides to drill mounting holes into the front seat frames.  I realized then that the bracket sewed onto the belt was sewed on the wrong side, with the offset not fitting into the mounting bracket.  A quick call to Seatbelt Planet and I had an RMA for them to rework the error.  Once back, the reel will mount to the aft spar with a plate and captive nut.  The belt will run behind the seat back through a small bracket to keep it in place and up through the shoulder bracket.  The seat covers will have an opening for the shoulder bracket.  Since I can simply unbolt the reel and webbing at two locations, seat removal will still be quick and easy.

I moved onto mounting the rear seat back frames from Aerosport which required removing the hinge half from the stock seat backs and installing them on the new backs.  Soon enough, I was ready to mount the rear belt brackets which are a bit different in design than the front.  They allow the belt to pass through them and keep it routed properly from the reel mount on the underside of the cross bar.  Since the same error was made on the rear belts, I sent them back as well.  Once I receive the corrected belts, I’ll mount the reels for the front and rear seats.  The seats are now just waiting on the belts to send off to Aerosport for covering.  The front seats will be upholstered with the seatbelts running inside of the seat cover, so I need the belts before I can send them off.

One note is the center section from Aerosport is too short. Andrew is going to replace that when I send in the seats for upholstery. That will cover the gap and hide the cross bar completely.

Back to heavy metal work

Posted on by

One task that I want to document for others I forgot to mention is modifying the tunnel cover around the Control Approach rudder pedals.  The cable attach arms are relocated inside the tunnel so slots need to be cut for them to move freely in the cover.  I measured their arc and marked the tunnel cover where I wanted to split it into two pieces.  Before cutting, I marked and drilled a center plate to hold nut plates which will allow me to screw the two pieces back together.  It was a pretty simple modification as was cutting the slots for the arms in each piece.  Again, I’m trying to consider maintenance and access down the road as much as I can.

I also took the time to modify the seat rails since I got the Aerosport seat levers.  Others have described this mod and it makes removal of the seats a snap.  Step one is to remove the delrin guides from the seat bottoms and trim the first 1 ½” off followed by reinstalling them.  This allows the seat to be slide rearward on the rails and then tilted around the flap tube cover with the necessary clearance.  I then removed the aft rail stop and drilled through the rail into the plate below.  Installing nut plates below the plates lets you put bolts in place of the screw and nut on the stop.  Now, I can get to the bolts from the top down eliminating the need to reach under the seat plate to get the lock off, allowing the seat to slide freely rearward.  It all makes sense when you look at it.

I’m trying to knock out some little side tasks along the way now in the spare time.  I used some excess epoxy from a door filling session to install the front vent NACA scoops.  I drilled a few holes and used clecos to hold them in place while the flox cured overnight.  I don’t have proseal and didn’t want to use any silicone on the area since it will be painted.  With minimal flexing and a good scuffing on both surfaces, I am confident the epoxy will hold these just fine long term.  The scat tube will have a short run from there to the Aerosport vents that I installed in the instrument panel.

I also performed a quasi service bulletin from Sean at Plane Around.  When I received the lights from him for the overhead and doors, several had bad boards which he promptly replaced.  I got a call from him with an interesting finding.  He used a brass wire over a piece of foam to hold the LED boards inside the aluminum and plastic housing.  He found that in a few instances, the wire was touching the board and shorting out LEDs.  Awesome service!  He called and suggested using a different method such as silicone which is an easy solution.  I removed all of the installed lights and completed the rework after ensuring all LEDs checked good.  I took the opportunity to install the micro molex connectors on the remaining few assemblies as well.

Service bulletin complied with in accordance with published guidance, OPS check good!

And finally, another cleanup item to mention was the addition to the hangar family.  While she hasn’t been officially named, our new Best Tugs Alpha 2 arrived!  I ordered this at OSH last year to use on the DA-40 we fly now and for long term with the RV.  It cost a pretty chunk of change (plastic, let’s be honest) but man is it nice.  It will save my twice-operated on back for years to come and is really handy to maneuver the airplane around.  It took a bit of practice one afternoon but now it’s just like pushing a shopping cart!  I requested the smooth cover with the intention of having it painted by Jonathan to match the RV but didn’t realize the red anodizing was going to arrive.  Oh well, not the end of the world.

Dirty Door Details

Posted on by

I want a really finished looking product for the doors which requires covering / filling in a few key spots such as the pin guides, hinges, and install holes for the gear rack and center cam.  Some have laid fiberglass over these areas, others have left them open, and a few folks are using basswood to create cover plates.  Since I’m better at the wood and had some on the shelf, that’s what I chose to do.  The pin guides I just roughed up and applied flox directly on them, roughing the shape in to match the door lines.  I used some scrap pin material to keep the hole clean.

 

I used the basswood to fill in a hole used to install the center latch and create covers for the hinges.  It was pretty easy to trim and shape the wood for the plates needed and after I coated all sides with epoxy to harden the wood, I epoxied the plates in place.  I then went back with Superfil and did the final contouring and shaping to match all of the door’s surface.  I’m really happy with how it came out and while it was a bit of extra work, I think it’s worth it in the end to not look at exposed hardware.  I’ll be covering the hinges on the cabin top down the road as well.  Finally, I took some time to fill in little surface blemishes and final shapped the interior edge of the window frame.

 

After all the sanding was done and I was happy with the doors, I wanted to re-mount them for the final time.  Here is where I realized I screwed up.  The hinges are mounted to the cabin top with the hardware essentially epoxied in (see prior post) so I had to slip the door onto the hinges and install the hardware behind the new cover plate I had spent all that time creating.  Bad idea.  It’s impossible to get the washer and nut on each screw on the door side of the hinge.  My fingers are fat and not triple jointed so I spent an hour raising my blood pressure far beyond healthy limits struggling with it.  I decided to walk away, burn the project to the ground, and start over.  Okay, really, I just took the rest of the night off.  The next evening with a calmer approach, I fabed up a handy little tool to hold the washer and nut in the cavity while I installed the screw.  I used some basswood and some aluminum to create a captive wrench so to speak that worked beautifully.  Had both doors installed in about 20 minutes.  Wish I had put the hinges on the door then bolted them onto the fuselage, but oh well.  I installed the last plates to close out the hinge area and applied filler to smooth is all over.  This completely closes out the hinge cavity on the door not only making it look better but allowing the door seal to work properly.

 

Meanwhile, I set about working on the instrument panel and center console.  The big Aerosport order had arrived a few weeks prior and I was eager to play with all of the cool stuff.  I started with the instrument panel and got the backing plate and the panel itself fitted in their place.  The side skirts on the tunnel attach to the lower instrument panel with the center console mating up to it.  This stuff is top notch quality and is going to be really awesome filled with fancy avionics!  I took my time to fit it all and used nutplates to ease future maintenance and removal.  I chose to countersink the carbon which left it a little thin and brittle, so I coated each screw hole with light epoxy to help strengthen the area.  I also cut out the main areas which will have the metal inserts leaving a 1” flange to be trimmed to final size later.  The center console was positioned and I used a strap duplicator to drill the holes matching the tunnel.

 

Since my plans include using the ACM from AFS, I want to use a fancy push to start button but couldn’t really find one that I liked.  The Honda S2000 button others have used are hard to find these days so after a few returned orders, a deep Google search turned up exactly what I was looking for.  It’s a simple Apem NO switch that has a LED light actuator.  It’s also the right size to be proportional to the panel location.  I couldn’t help but to drill the hole and mount it up to see how it looked.

 

The Andair fuel valve is mounted through the tunnel on the center console as well, so I set about locating the screw holes.  I mocked up the valve itself on the stock mount and will need to create a larger mounting plate for the valve housing down the road.  It allowed me to trim the handle extension and locate the plate on top of the console.  Again, had to mock it up and do some airplane noises while turning the valve.  The noises worked perfectly; so did the valve.

 

Finally, I cut the throttle quadrant area out and worked on installing the quadrant onto the tunnel cover.  Thanks to Ed and Aerosport’s awesome YouTube video, it was pretty painless and I wound up with a very nice fit with the throttles fitting flush with the console when everything is installed.  I cut a large slit on the throttle friction lock area that allows easy removal of the console.  I’ll create a trim plate to cover up the slit for a finished look.  With the main carbon work done, it was time to drop off the instrument panel parts and center console to a paint shop for a clear coat.  I want to leave the carbon look exposed but wasn’t happy with the finish right out of the mold.  I had originally asked Aerosport to clear the items but they quoted over $1500 just for the clear coat.  I almost choked.  I love them to death and they’ve done a lot to help, but I couldn’t swallow that pill.  A few calls around the area and a local custom motorcycle paint shop could perform the work in four days for $250.  We’ll see how they turn out next.

Hold the door, Hodor

Posted on by
Any big cut or drilling job comes with some anxiety and the door pin hole is no exception.  Now that the door handles and pins are all installed and working like a fine oiled machine, they need a home to rest in.  I removed the magnetic tipped pin inserts and used two ground down bolts threaded into the rods to locate the exact spot to drill into the door frame and fuselage bulkheads.   This worked really well as I was able to position the door flush with the fuselage and locate the drill placement without worrying about future misalignments.
I have some fancy aluminum pin guide/blocks from IFlyRV10 that go along with the magnetic pin inserts.  These help guide the pins in and just make closing the door that much easier and smoother in coordination with the PlaneAround center cam.  I polished the holes with some light sandpaper to get a smooth action and am really stoked to say all four holes are in the perfect position the first time!
The next project is to prep for the door seal.  As most have done prior, I am going with an aftermarket seal that affixes to the door frame rather than the door itself.  Since the frame isn’t designed for it, a little prep work is required.  I needed to build back material for the seal to mount on that will put the bulb nicely against the door.  I purchased twice as much seal as needed so I could use half of it sacrificially to form the new lip.  I mixed up a big batch of epoxy and flox and used a baggy to fill the seal.  Then I took my time to press on just enough to hold onto the frame.  Once dried, I pulled the seal off which left a nice new structure all around the door opening.
With the door on, I marked the areas that needed to be sanded down or built up a bit with filler to get a nice consistant gap all along the door lip.  Despite all the dust, it was a pretty easy task and soon enough I was ready to put on filler to smooth things out.  I did both the inside and outside.  I’m a little bummed that I’ll have to re-shoot some paint on the inside, but I can mask of the overhead console so that will make it a bit easier to blend.
Meanwhile I built a bed up of epoxy and flox on the hinge mounts since a few of the washers and nuts didn’t sit flush with the cabin top due to the contour of the inside surface.  This allows the torque to be spread properly over the newly built up area.  I let the epoxy cure about 75% then put the washer and nut on so it compressed the fill into place.  After it cured I finally torqued them to spec.
A few evenings of sanding and filling later, the left door frame is ready for paint on the inside and the seal to be installed.  The right door is coming along with initial sanding and filling happening now.  Once the windows are in, I’ll fill the final door gap and finish the rest of the door frames.